The Modified Side Arm Burner was built and
designed by Larry Zoeller, this design was inspired by the work of
Jerry
Frost and others. I know that there are a lot of burner
designs
out there that work just as well, but I feel the ease with which you
can
build the modified sidearm design makes it worth using.
Update
06/21/08: The
Side-Arm Burner BTU output chart above was complied from testing done
at the University
of Kentucky, Center for Applied Energy Research.
The BTU output chart above is not theoretical numbers but are the actual
measured
BTU output of the Side Arm Burner.
Update
07/21/06: The rule of thumb
for side arm burners to forge volume is: (1) 3/4" side arm burner
for every 350 cu/in of interior forge space. These figures are
for a forge that has been properly insulated, for example: two layers
of 1"Durablanket
with 8 lb. density 1260°C (2300°F) temperature grade rating for
the forge lining and forge lining coated with Plistix 900 F. I
have also posted a link on my FAQs page to an
online calculator to figure the area of a cylinder.
Update
04/21/06: If you
are going to use a manufactured pipe nipple or a pipe nipple that was
cut with a roll style pipe cutter for your burner tube there are
several things that you will need to do to it to get the best
performance out of it. The first thing that you need to do is if
you are going to buy a threaded nipple is buy a 3/4" x 9" nipple and
cut 1" off one end. The flares are designed to fit on the
outside
of 3/4" pipe and if you use a 3/4" x 8" nipple your burner flare will
be a very poor fit because of the threads on the end that the flare
goes on. The other things that you will need to do is file the
rolled end off threaded end of the pipe and file or sand the seam
inside the pipe smooth. I cut all of the pipe that I use for
burner tubes on a bandsaw, so you will not have the rolled edge on the
end of the threads. It also seems to me that the better quality
brands of pipe will have very little if any seam on the inside.
I have had a lot of people ask me if
they can use a shorter burner tube than 8" long stated in the
plans. So I took some
time out in the shop playing with different length burner tubes, sure I
could get them to run on 6", 7", and 7 1/2" burner tubes but they
were very erratic and it also caused the burner flares to get red
hot. I would guess that the flame was actually burning up inside
of the burner flare instead of the end of it. So I would say that
8" is definitely the shortest that you will want to try and run with
the 3/4" side arm burner.
I posted the update on 05/20/04 about an alternative method of holding
the 1/8" pipe in place. I still prefer to use the 1 1/4" pipe
plugs and drilling the hole for the 1/8" pipe using a lathe. This
method ensures that your pipe nipple will be centered correctly.
Using the pipe bushing in the alternative method you are depending on
the threads on the bushings to be threaded on center, I have found that
this is not always true, so this could cause your burner to run erratic.
I am now using the 14T-35 contact tip made by Tweco, this is the longer
contact tip with the taper on it. I feel that it improves the
performance over the standard 14-35 tips. The following link is
to a pdf file of the Tweco contact tips chart it also shows the actual
inside i.d. of all of the tips. Tweco
contact tip chart
I have also created a frequently asked question
page that covers tuning the side arm burners and other commonly
asked questions concerning atmospheric gas burners and forge building.
Update 05/20/04: I
received a e-mail from Mike Murphy of Tallahassee, Florida. He
has
an alternative method of holding the 1/8" pipe nipple in place. Michael
writes, "I swiped an idea from Mike Porter’s book and added it to
your sidearm burner design. Instead of using a bored-out stopper
(pipe plug) with a setscrew to mount the accelerator, I put in a 1 1/4
to 3/8 bushing. Then I took a 3/8 to 1/8 bushing, drilled it out
to 27/64, and slit the ends of the threads like on Page 57 of Mike’s
book.
(He says to use a 1/4 to 1/8 bushing bored to 13/32, but that hole is
too
small to fit the pipe nipples I have.) Anyway, it works pretty
well.
I do not see a large increase in efficiency (if any), but its a lot
easier
and more accurate than drilling out the stopper and drilling and
tapping
the setscrew hole. At least for me it is; I don't have access to
a machine shop, so I'm doing a lot of this stuff with a regular drill
press,
hand taps and dies, homemade jigs, etc. I'm assuming, of course,
that the bushings and pipe couplers are accurately cast and tapped." Note: I tried this method and it works
well,
the only thing that I did differently was use a 13/32" drill bit
instead
of a 27/64" like Mike used. The outside diameter of pipe nipples will
vary,
so I would recommend measuring the outside diameter of the nipples that
you are using before drilling the bushing out.
Update 04/10/04:Single
Style Choke Plate. File or sand the
branch
opening of the reducing tee to provide a smooth mating surface for the
choke plate. Using a #36 drill bit drill a hole in the branch
opening
of the tee and tap it for a 6-32 NC screw. Note: a compression
spring
under the cap screw will help hold the choke plate in a set position.
UPDATE
10/09/03:
An alternative to the using of the 1/8" schedule 80 pipe nipple is to
use
a 1/8" x 3 1/2" std. black pipe nipple with a 1/8" std. black coupling
and 1/8"pipe plug installed on one end. The 1/8" pipe plug needs
to be drilled and tapped to 1/4"-28 NF to accept the contact tip.
UPDATE
1/2/04: Make
sure that you use the Ward brand reducing tees to make the Side Arm
Burners.
The other brands such as Grinnell and Anvil do not have the nice taper
that the Ward have and do not burn as well. If you also try to go
with larger openings such as a 1 1/2" x 3/4" x 1 1/2"with the Ward
brand
it will not have the taper either, it will look like the Anvil brand
reducing
tee shown on the right.
This is a picture the burner using a 1 1/4"
x 3/4" x 1 1/4"(Ward) reducing tee. The reducing tee acts like the bell reducer used on the Reil
simple burner.
Here you can see the pipe plug drilled out
for the 1/8" schedule 80 pipe nipple and the contact tip.
You
can use either a .035 or .045 contact tip (
note: the contact tips are used in the MIG gun on MIG welders they are
available at your local welding supply shop).
There are several brands of contact tips that will work, just make sure
that they have 1/4"-28 NF threads.
To access these files, you must download
the most current Adobe Acrobat PDF Reader by clicking on the icon
above.
This is a free download.
Parts List for the
Modified
Side Arm Burner (1) 3/4" standard pipe 8 to 9 inches long
with threads on one end. (1) Ward 1 1/4" x 3/4" x 1 1/4" std. black
reducing tee, (1) 1/8" x 3 1/2" schedule 80 pipe nipple (1) 1 1/4" std. black pipe plug (1) .035 or .045 contact tip (1) Stainless steel
burner
flare
Note: You need to tap one end of the 1/8"
pipe
with a 1/4"-28 N.F. tap for the contact tip. There is no need to
drill it before tapping the threads.
Mini-Side Arm Burner
The Mini-Side Arm Burner is a scaled down
version
of the Modified Side Arm Burner. This is another simple to
build burner that performs well. I have had a lot of people tell
me that the modified side arm burner works great but they do not need a
burner that big, they just want to work in a smaller forge.
I have heard this a lot, especially from the Bladesmiths that forge and
heat treat small knives. This mini burner would be great for a
mini forge with the inside volume of about 60 cu/in.
Click on the following link to view a pdf
file
of the Mini-Side Arm Burner
Parts List for the
Mini-Side
Arm Burner (1) 1/2" x 6" std. black pipe nipple (1) Ward 1" x 1/2" x 1" std. black
reducing tee. (1) 1/8" x 3 1/2" schedule 80 pipe nipple (1) 1" std. black pipe plug (1) .023 contact tip (1) Stainless steel
burner
flare
If you are looking for parts to
build
a gas forge, please check my gas forge supply page. I am now
selling
burner flares, propane regulators, LP hoses, gauges, valves, tank
fittings
and Durablanket. Zoeller
Forge Gas Forge Parts
Disclaimer Notice: Zoeller Forge specifically disclaim any
responsibility
or liability for damages or injuries as a result of any construction,
design,
use or application of information contained on this web site.
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